El, you really must try this. It’s puerco pibil. It’s a slow-roasted pork - nothing fancy - just happens to be my favorite.
– Sands
(Johnny Depp), Once Upon a Time in Mexico
Anyone that has followed this blog knows that I have a fondness for Belizean foods. As with all places I've lived, I have been drawn to certain dishes over and over again, searching out perfection - sampling frites (the proper name for french fries) all over Belgium and France, traveling to Beirut, Lebanon in search of the perfect shawarma, and closer to home, scouring the mid-west for the best burger (the Fun-Guy at T-bock's in Decorah, Iowa).
In Belize, the local favorite that I have had over and over again and just can't get enough of is pork pibil. Chan Chich lodge has a fantastic pibil...I think it's the first place I ever had it. I'm still conflicted every time I stray away from it on the menu. Orange Walk Town, the capital of Orange Walk District, is known throughout Belize for having the best pibil tacos, which can be purchased 3 for a dollar (that's 3 for $0.50 US), and served exclusively for breakfast. The tacos are served with habanaro pepper sauce and diced onion & cilantro on the side. They can only be ordered by the dollar amount. If you ask for 6 tacos you will end up with 18, a mistake that will leave you with a stomachache and sense of accomplishment.
Going on 3 years now in Belize, I'm beginning to gain some local knowledge, and when it comes to pibil, there is nowhere that does it better than August Pine Ridge, a village that is a little past the half way mark between Gallon Jug and Orange Walk Town. August Pine Ridge boasts a fine public school, bustling church scene, beautiful women, and the best pibil cooks in Belize (and quite possibly the world).
I recently had the honor of traveling to August Pine Ridge and participating in a traditional pibil cook.
Pibil is of Mayan origin and means 'cooked underground', which is the big trick. Recipes for preparing and marinating the pork very, but all of the best cooks start with [PROPRIETARY INFORMATION REMOVED] and lastly wire lid securely on to cast-iron pot.
Now the fun begins! About an hour before sunset start digging a hole large enough to bury a medium to large sized pig. After digging the hole, as the sun is setting, start a large fire in the hole, this will be used for creating the charcoal base needed for cooking. Sapodilla is the preferred wood.
When the wood has burned down to a uniform charcoal base it is time to pop in the pibil.
Next lock in the heat and smoke with a piece of sheet metal and again add palmetto fronds around the edge of the sheet metal to lock in the heat and flavor.
Completely cover the sheet metal and palm fronds with dirt, making sure that no smoke is allowed to escape.
Not ready for the bonfire to be over???? Light one on top of the dirt mound and marvel into the early morning hours on the magic happening below.
In the morning it's time to behold what miracles have taken place...
...what went into the ground as mere pig, emerges as pork pibil.
A wonder to behold.
I'm a bit embarrassed that I only got a picture of one of the 4 meals of pibil I ate over the 2 days of my stay, but when it comes to pibil you don't mess with knifes and forks, you just get it in you.
Clean fingers and hands for taking photos are simply not a priority.
